Rose Index Review | Never Seen One?

how are you doing everybody Randy Richard in the shop back on the cement mixer restoration so we’re still affecting of
course repairs on it but I want to show you a new tool that I received and it’s
it’s a little bit of an alternative to a collet block but it has probably more
uses than that really than a collet block so I want to show you to show it
to you but first I’ll explain what I need to do so you see this pin that I
made right here and it’s a one inch this is a one inch diameter and one inch
eight thread and it has a square end on it and I showed that with my making the
fixture plate I used it as a referencing pin I screwed it in the Holman
referenced against it for all the other holes I want to have two of those two of
those pins right there that fell on the floor these are made from a W-1 tool
steel a drill rod and I made another one here and I just want to put a square end
on it and that’s so I can get it in and out that make it tight against the
shoulder of the plate that way I can set up a fence on the plate and things like
that these are basically their 1.000″ diameters they’re both the same they’re
right on the money that’s nice thing about using drill rod
it’s an accurate ground material so what I want to put a square on that so what
fell at the floor was one inch collet now I can put a 1 and put this in a
collet block oh this is a 1 inch collet now if it was bigger than this you’re
limited usually on the depth of how far or something will go into the cot so
this is pretty much the maximum 5c collet and that can go in there you can
hold that you know here’s a square call it block slip you don’t have it
like just throw that your vice and you can just flip this block around boom
boom boom and do your square you can also use a hex call it block like this
if you wanted to do a hex and just roll it around in your vise like I said if it
was good on a 5c collet if it’s gonna be bigger than the inch it’s only gonna go
in there about an inch so you can’t pass it through like this piece here you can
pass on right on through right so you can have a long piece and and of course
the things smaller than an inch you could pass on through and have it long
so this is a short one the short piece so this is this I could do with a collet
block but this shaft here and this is what it has to do a cement mixer this is
the jack shaft that the motor is driving one into this and then this has another
pulley goes to the pulley to spin the drum to drive the drum this is 3/4 shaft
it’s oh I didn’t measure it it’s uh about 20 inches long
well there’s no key ways in this and the pulleys have key ways but they were just
had a set screw and then you can see the marks here where it’s but at one time
the shafts a good shape it’s it’s straight it’s clean and and so I’m just
gonna reuse it but it really should have keyways a head in it to lock those
pulleys on well I’m going up so I’m gonna put two three sixteenths keyways
in this one will be about two inches long and this is gonna be about three
and a quarter inches long and I want to either clock up so that they’re the same
or maybe put them 180 degrees I’m probably gonna just clock them so that
they’re in line with one another but now I can put that in the collet block
because it will pass through but this is this is kind of a demonstration to of
the the new tool I’ll show you so the new tool is right here now this
is a small version of the new tool right there yeah well we’ll get a closer shot
of it and so you can see it and what it has is around this side here it’s square
right that’s what that profile you see here but then there’s two more profiles
these are both this is the hex right here and then this is the next
other profiles that octagon so that’s eight sides and what this does is it
just will slip on your work like this now it has a really nice set screw a
brass point it set screw and you can just lock that on there when the allen
wrench a little bit so it’s snug but what that allows you to do is I could
put this in the mill vise real easily just clamp it up in the middle vise have
this end out or this end in the in the vise actually up high enough but or have
it stick out and I can mill that now for me to clock this this is sticking out of
the vise you know foot and I just can’t take this and flip it around now I got
it if I flipped it around now I have to dial indicate that in or something like
that to get that oriented just right but if I had this on the end so this is the
first end we did that long in let’s say I orient this really quickly against the
mill table let’s say so this is oriented properly parallel with a mill table and
this was on top all I have to do is flip this around reorient this piece to the
mill table real easy with a stack of blocks or something or adjustable
parallel or just about anything and orient that to there and now it’s
already clocked automatically for the keyway then they’ll be clocked the
same now you could also use this to kind of hacks I could just clock that around
and cut a hex or I in the case of the one-inch piece here we’re gonna cut a
square around the end here and but we and we’re going to use this no he also
makes a a larger one and this is I think up to two inches and this one’s up to
one inch yeah I think this is this is what this one’s up to one inch I know I
should have I should have rid the spec sheet right well I didn’t but yeah this
is this sides up to one inch two inches and it’s the same it’s a whole lot
heavier duty I mean this is about half an inch here and each these faces are
about five sixteenths but it has the hex and the octagon around here in assets
proof so if you had a bigger shaft that you wanted to orient you could put this
on there do your key way or do whatever you’re gonna do put this on there an
orient it and then you can just flip your shaft around and reorient against
this as a reference and put it in now these are very accurately you made these
are called Rose Index I was saying that these were made to a high level of
accuracy now I couldn’t would not find that in the sheets that I received but
they they are they I mean they aren’t they’re made out of steel they kind of a
really nice really nice black oxide type finish like it’s not blued but it was
some other type of oxide case ah so you could like I said this is one two two
and this is a quarter inch to one inch and so you could do a what two three
four six and eight sided or you could you know patterns or you could use it
even as a bolt hole indexing piece on the mill if you had that mounted on
there yeah there there’s a lot of uses but the
big one I see the the big one I like is it as an indexing feature for things
that won’t fit in a collet block there so that’s what I see this being used as
especially on the long shaft and that’s where I want to use it so we’re gonna go
over and use these on the mill and not the big one the little one and we’re
gonna we’re gonna give him a try and see how how I like them and see how they
perform so let’s uh let’s go over there and take a look at so one other thing
before I go to the mill you can get Tim the guy who invented these sells them
through Lakeshore Carbide so their website is Lakeshore Carbide.com that’s
where you can find them and they call Rose Index if you want to look them up
I’ll have a link in the description of the video of course so yeah so check him
out now I’m not getting paid to do this or anything I there’s no no no
compensation for this or anything I was actually looking for a solution and type
of thing and a long cane Tim and so we’re gonna give try to try this out as
a solution for what I wanted to do and that’s pretty cool so these are made by
Tim actually but he sells them on the Lakeshore Carbide yeah so let’s go to
the mill now so here’s our shaft yeah like I said one end is gonna be about
three and a quarters and the other end is a two-inch a key and we’ll do this so
we line them up so that they’re not clocked odd or anything so we’ll see it
will just suck this in the shaft I’ll just my I just quickly drew some lines
on there which aren’t even close but and we’ll just hold it down in there we’ll
get it actually we’ll get this in in position where we’ll
that there we go so that’s basically ready to go on this end for
milling should have enough room just a 3/16 keyway now we’ll put on our rose
index out here now I’m gonna put it out here this part is gonna stick out three
and a quarter inches at least two two mill this so or maybe we’ll probably
have almost four inches out so we’ll just we’ll just kind of stick it out
here somewhere where it’s not gonna be in the way but we wanted to clear the
vise and so it has to stick out a couple inches at least so there and I’m not
going to tighten it up now so it’s I’m just going to do not clock these in any
directions are both going to be the same we’ll just all we have to do is square
this up on on the shaft various ways here I came up with this is a two inch
adjustable parallel and I can actually make that fit up under there and just
hold it across on the table and we’ve got a little bit loose and square it up
and tighten it but in other methods here this is a fire ball tool two inch block
one of this magnetic set up blocks throw that underneath there and then just use
a small adjustable parallel and just loosen that push that in there so that
it’s a little bit snug and tighten it up that works or even not planar gauge will
work there’s a planar gauge and we just loosen that reach in there slide it up
to to the bottom just a little bit loose slide it up there tighten it and we’re
good to go so there’s three methods of it we’ll just we’ll just snug it it’s
good has a brass tip won’t martyr the work well when a mil and we want it to be a
center line of course just going to edge find edge find the sides we’ll divide by
two and we’ll position right over the center it was just up let the did did the math
with the Dro and bring it to zero position and we’re good just come down
here now we’re gonna touch off until I see
full contact of the end mill half the doubt half the theft is about
90 mm and I’m just using the dial of course
I’m there you know .092 she’s a bit much for the n-no so
we whoa with about .040 I’m going to use a little air to help
keep the chips out there the little boss there’s just a high-speed endmill let’s see uh oh yeah perfect perfect fit
and we should be it right at the right depth will scoot this down we’ll give
this a try with a bullet now there’s to be a little burr on there
so enough room to slip this in there oh yeah there we go
very nice fit that’s right all right we’ll go now we’ll flip it around and
we’ll do the other end there’s the keyway flip that right around put that
up to about where we need to be a little tension on it all right take the planar
gauge and we’ll just kind of let’s let’s do it with the planar gauge now we’ll
just we’ll just loosen that up a little bit holding it down just I mean it’s
just just just so I can move it a little bit right we’ll just push the planar
gauge up on there that was easier than using the the
little small parallel that was a lot easier using that yeah I think we’re I
think we’re ready to mill it see now we’re aligned now I can just take this
off and we’ll come in a milot no I did not move the table in or out it should
be the same you you there we go now okay those key ways are
running out of money looks like nice and lined up so that worked really well made
it very easy to flip around I could have laid it in a “T”slot but indexing it I
wouldn’t have had to because I could on this one it’s not so long as a table and
I could have just laid it and slot milled it going to the other end of mill
that it would have been quicker but this is also a demonstration of the tool now
if I had a one aft that was longer than sticking out off the table and all that
it’d be absolutely a perfect thing to do use to set things up you could put it
put it on there align it to the table flip the shaft around and you’d have
your indexing so for this sort of thing is that’s a very nice tool very very
easy to use actually so now let’s do the other project so this is a project – I
just want to put a square around this size really doesn’t matter but we’ll
probably make it look not turn down but just similar to that and that is a okay
so that’s a weird size .596 yes whatever that is I did I didn’t do that make that
this was a drop from a friend of mine and and it was good metal and I
just turned did you know Pam bows already square was a screwed-up part it just needs I just want a square so I
can throw a crescent wrench on there it doesn’t extend through the Vise right
it’s too short so down in here I have a block set in there and I have my stop
flip down so that I that will index the length of
the part so it will always stick out the same we’ll just slide it in there
against there now where we started doesn’t matter it’s round I can just
hold that in there tighten it up so what I’ll do is I’ll I’m gonna come in a mill
of flat I’ll calculate a rough depth to get that raw same size
I’ll bill the flat then I’m going to take that the rose index now this is the
one two two one and I’m going to stick it on here like
that I’m gonna take a square so after I’ve
milled that flat I’m gonna put the Rose index on I’m gonna take this machine a
square roll it up there they clamp that down and and clamp that on now you this
is a fixed stirring device this is not for holding the part to machine it or
anything like that it’s a fixturing device so you do not
have to crank on this thing and all just up there nice and square snug it then
then I can then I’ll loosen this I’ll rotate it rotate the part tighten device take this off build the
next flat and then do the same over the same each time to index it around like I
said the Rose indexing tool it’s a fixturing device to measure from and
orient something with it’s not to clamp in the vise to hold it this is just one
little set screw let me put a million and we’ll know that first wide all right
you got a for flute Ruffy Milind air carbide one this is not really nice huh
Niagra cutter so we need take off two hundred thousandths basically we’ll just
go out and touch you that’s what side now lid that’s it all
right we’ll slip the Rosa index on there it’s gonna tighten on that flat but to
be fine set this up they’re squared up snug rotate it we’re ready to go I’m not and I’m not gonna measure this
I’m just gonna use the index and we’re gonna see how it all comes out put the chips out of there that’s Rosco let me know he’s out there got dark I’m gonna put it so the curved
surfaces against here let’s see it seats better it comes with different lengths
setscrews so if you have a clearance issue or anything like that or a real
small part or something but the for the bigger one I said the bigger one comes
with different length sensors because of the such of the span I think that’s it well looks even see what the of .589 .589 by .601 .600 .600
one way about 10 about 9 that well yeah measure that down here yeah about 0.009
off well that may be me but that’s pretty good not too bad now if you can
use a call it block it’d be much faster especially for the size the size but if
something is long and sticking out your vise then then this this tool it would
be great maybe or something that will fit in a call it block it much much
easier to just rotate your block obviously and keep going and but like so
if it’s if it sticks out past the vise and doesn’t fit in the call block
fantastic tool now there are there’s many other uses there’s a short video
I’ll put a link to the video about the tool in the description
and you can see them use it in a bunch of other other fashions I should say
other instances but for this this is a it worked perfect really worked great so you should be work great for me especially the keyway
thing especially on a long shaft on the keyway thing that worked really nice all
right analysis a little bit so my key ways are
very much in line I have no problem with that that came out just wonderful and
worked great for a longer shaft that was that was slick actually it was it worked
really good I had no fear or that when I flipped it around I was going to be
square and aligned so that that worked out really really well with the keyways
project and this this here worked out ID bird just a little bit better and I’m
gonna measure this one now this was this was done on a CNC machine actually so we
got there .595 .595 .596 .596 so that’s pretty square .596 pretty square well even now
squareness I did not check squared let’s open this let’s say let’s say it’s there
well it’s checking it that way there’s no no light so that’s it’s a pretty
square and my sizing here I see how did I come out you know .595 and .598 so about
0.003 so I’m about 0.003 so over there let’s see and but that is perfect square
as far as with the square here I mean for for a head of a bolt or something
that’s pretty good little bit off in there a little bit there and pretty
square there so just a tiny bit off but that’s you know could be male it’s
probably me you know aligning it it was a short piece so it’s kind of hard to
see in there and stuff but but that that’s the feel thing you know Brett is
pretty darn close it because enough for a bolt or a rancher
or whatever but but that’s for me now you know if I was doing production work
I think I might want a little better lighting or a little better view but now
for long parts so this was a short part and I was up against a stop and all that
but for a longer part where it’s sticking out of the vise and you can
have this on one end especially a longer shaft these are fantastic idea actually
so for they are for like set for fixturing not for clamping with two
machine but this is a fantastic idea especially for longer stuff this would
this here since this would fit in a call it would have been much faster with a
collet of course but I wouldn’t say necessarily any more accurate so but it
might have been a little bit better but I’m very happy with how it all came out
and all that so yeah for long stuff these are ideal ideal tool to have in
your box or for a longer thing you know I hope you can see the detail there
these are very nicely made and they come with various set screws for lengths and
case you have longer stock so you don’t have such good sticking out too much but
very very nicely done for the bigger one also all in grave patent-pending and part
numbers so if you haven’t seen one of these anyway there you go this is pretty
good I have a pretty good little demonstration of what it’s good for like
I said especially longer stuff for sure these are ideal tool to have in your box
I think very very nice make sure you check them out on
Lakeshore Carbide calm and I’ll put the link to the what their website in the
video description and damn you Timm Rosenthal made these and he did a
fantastic job very very nice so if you’re interested in that stuff Chuck
about it Lakeshore Carbide.com thank you guys thanks for watching catch you
in the next one

Glenn Chapman


  1. Good Afternoon Randy! Gee you get all the neat toys! I'll have to look for those.

  2. Good idea Randy, an alternative tool for indexing that at times could be of use. The right tool for the job always helps and there usually are many ways to do the same thing, just pick the quickest and easiest one that you have available.

  3. When doing the square end,you already have a surface to reference to on the shaft itself,so why bother with attaching the block?

  4. I just watched the promo video. This tool has alot of possibilities. It depends on your needs if it is right for you. Thanks for showing

  5. Looks like the set screw could use a knob for tightening so you wouldn't need a hex wrench.

  6. Hi Randy – I was torn between this and your live video just now. So, two things #1 Love the Rose Index – it goes to show that the simple things are often the best. And #2 Realization just hit, it is winter there so we'll have to wait for months before we see your mixer in action. Unless you mix up some cement to fill your Truck Hub and give the new fixture table a bit more weight for stability??!!

  7. There are a lot of possibilities for such a tool! Great shop project! Thanks Randy!!!!

  8. Us old dogs used to do the same indexing trick with a lathe dog. Works every time, good luck with the mixer!

  9. i think most machinists have made and used fixtures for doing what you did, but this guy has designed a very versatile fixture , its one of those things that make you say" why didn't i think of that". good video.

  10. Looks like it could be a pretty handy little fixture 🙂. I think if you were just cutting a square, hex or octagon in the end of a shaft, a machinists level could work as well 😁.

  11. I think they are over priced $75 for the small ¼" to 1" and $149 for the large one . They are about 2x to 4x much . Maybe $25 for small and $40 for large would be a good value … Nice tool just overpriced.

  12. I love the money bag over the precision test stand. ChaChing! Rose Index blocks are very nice orientation tooling. Any new work holding option to have in the tool bag is nice.

  13. Did the same out in the shop today only much smaller. I needed a 3mm triangular security bit for small security screw. Hard milled it out of a broken #2 Phillips bit. Indexed it with the opposite end existing hex shape. You getting any snow, been raining most of the day in Sunnyvale? Have a nice turkey day.

  14. enjoyed discussion/demonstration …Happy Thanksgiving, nice tool for the specific job….might be expensive to sit in the drawer waiting for that specific job….as we know “lots of ways to skin a cat”, but I should shut up as I have lots of expensive tools on the shelf/drawer waiting for a specific use….LOL….

  15. A useful tool perhaps you should produce some with your 3-d printer for other than 1&2 inches

  16. That's great for long stuff, but maybe a bit fussy for shorter pieces.
    Thanks for sharing!

  17. The advantage I see to these is that it doesn't require a full set of collets or collet blocks "to get-er-done". However, I suspect you'd have problems if you just grip shafts in a mill vise without a v-block. I suspect these would also have problems with softer items, like wood or plastics, where the setscrew might dig in. I mention this simply because machinist toys are often REALLY handy in a wood shop.

  18. Looks like a very nice tool to have in the arsenal… though maybe a bit pricey for occasional use for some of us. Certainly advantageous for long pieces.

  19. Ehh are you really supposed to remove it? I figured you just indicate it square after you rotate the part with it still on it.

  20. Sorry, just too much room for setup errors. Seems easier to cut one flat, machinist square from flat to table, move to next, etc. , not to mention much faster just using square from machined flat to table, too much fumbling to get "fixture" set each time. Especially for the price! For a hexagon 60 degree angle gauge to table from each flat, etc. An expensive widget, looking for a useful application, although i could envision some places where it would be beneficial.

  21. neat idea, whether you use a Hex stock, or round ,square, or whatever shape, especially as you say on a longer metal shaft

  22. Hello all,
    I’m not social media savvy so please give me some leeway, and I really dislike the lens end of a camera. To be as short and sweet as I can …. I am simply a guy that makes his living by cutting chips. The Rose-Index originated because of need. The original was very simple, and easy to make. Over a few years of time and various needs the Rose-Index has evolved to where it is. I feel very confident that the Rose-Index is capable of doing things that inexpensive up to and including expensive indexers simply won’t do. I do feel that the Rose-Index should be a tool in every machinist’s tool box. My “Promo Video” that Randy has the link to is a basic start to the capabilities. I have a Facebook page that I am hoping to show real projects I have done, and I am hoping to have others share their uses, however again I am not very savvy with social media and I am trying to get to it.

    I’m going to try to respond in one shot to many comments. I will also try to answer other questions as I can. Just please know I’m just one guy that still needs to cut chips to pay bills. The biggest need to know is the Rose-Index is a Reference tool that is clamped to a part that is being held with any form of work holding. It is not designed to hold material for machining purposes.


    -Pricing seems to be a concern. I could point out many aspects of the time and thought I have put into these, however talk is cheap. The reality is that everyone’s needs are different, and until you try one you won’t have good feel or understanding of how well they truly work. Seeing a video is one thing. Seeing parts go out the door quicker is another. There are so many ways to consider value. I make my living by making chips. I have grinding equipment, and I could start designing and trying to manufacture endmills or drills to cut chips in the shop, however I let multiple manufacturers do their thing and I buy the cutting tools that help me do my niche of making chips. Depending what you do for work or hobby the Rose-Index will pay for itself quickly in time saved. This was designed to be quick and efficient. These are made from steel, and machined on every side. They are zinc plated, and come with various lengths of brass tipped set screws. All of the shapes are concentric, and distortion of the perimeter is extremely low even at high torque levels on the set screw. (I would need to find my numbers, however I believe there was less than a thou of deflection on any shape at 120 inch pounds on the set screw for the RI-2.) As an alternative I want to make Aluminum versions to cut the price however I have been concerned about people cranking the set screws overly tight. I have tried the same version in Aluminum, however I was not satisfied with the distortion under the same conditions. I have a design that should eliminate the effects of distortion in aluminum, however I haven’t machined any yet. The reality is that I have been cutting chips for 24 years ….. I have CNC indexers, Hardinge 5-C indexers, various 5-C holders including the typical Collet Blocks and yet I had a need that wasn’t being met efficiently and I created these. Most of the indexers in the shop collect dust and take up shelf space, because I rarely use them. Most my work is prototyping and I use the Rose-Index quite often. While everyone’s opinions and needs are different I have enough faith in the Rose-Index that I put my name on them. Depending on your needs this potentially eliminates the need for thousands of dollars worth of tooling and a lot of shelf space. Many have said that this is an expensive thing for a hobby shop, however compare it’s price to any of the other tools you would have available for purchase to do similar things which really are not as versatile. I have considered and looked into Sintered Metal/3D Medal Printing/Investment Casting/Sand Castings to reduce costs, however at this time I feel that cutting from raw steel is the best process.


    -I could take way too long with this, however if you use the same reference table, the same reference square, indicator, or whatever …… ultimately the precision is up to you …. however these work very well. They were manufactured on a CNC VMC, other than going to a grinder these are better than typical needs for positional accuracies. You can use regular vise jaws, vee-type vise jaws, collet head, chucks, fixtures, whatever form of holding you want. The rotation comes down to feel or a beam of light. A beam of light is very accurate…..optical comparators are very accurate and have been working like this a long time. This is not designed to take the place or precision of a $5k-$10k 4th axis or indexer in a production environment. I personally have put many more dollars of work out the shop door with this as an option I have available. Over the years I have not had an issue with parts not being in spec. The biggest hurdle I have is that I need people to see that this is a method/means of referencing from, it has never been designed to clamp material for machining from.

    -“Just use a square” on the just machined flat. These give more length to reference from than the material they are clamped on. More length aids in referencing from and accuracy. Trying to reference from a short flat doesn’t work as well.

    Knob/Something vs. an Allen wrench:

    -I am listening, and I’m open to the idea. I have used these for a few years now, and I wouldn’t want a knob or handle getting in the way, or have a chance of bumping it. An allen wrench is simple and quick and won’t be a clearance problem when it isn’t in the setscrew. If I can produce something that makes the Rose-Index more desirable and it makes financial sense I will entertain the idea. I have visions of nice wooden boxes with cut outs for 2 each of the RI-1 and RI-2 along with some additional accessories I am working on. Either way I need to get these to market to recoup much time and expense. I do have big hopes for these into the future, however I need see if it is a viable product that others are willing to purchase before I go broke on a chasing a dream that isn’t realistic…….plus I still have a day job that pays the bills……this is simply a venture I’m taking a chance on. I tried to be as simple as possible with this. Allen wrenches are very easy to come by and the Rose-Index is better to be left on your part until finished, however if you need to take them off for clearance reasons that is a great option.

    3D Printing:

    -I have a version that I played with in my head for the last year or two. I made a model on my CAM software and 3D printed a 2” version with PLA. It took a bit over 3 hours printing and another hour in the shop. It is not accurate at all, and has no stability to speak of, however it was a means for me to take something from my head to my hand.

    Extras/Into the future:

    -I have plans for additional tools that will add to the Rose-Index’s capabilities and efficiencies.

    -Extra Sizes above 2” (RI-2) I have a 3” version that I use occasionally. I recently did had a 2-15/16” shaft that was 14’ 7” long that I clocked 3/8” wide keys 14” long on each end ….. very accurately. (I do have pictures and plan to share on FB). Depending on need I can envision using uni-strut some type of clamps, a stud, and a Rose-Index to rotate even large diameter material. While I hope to make larger sizes into the future I don't see them being a big selling item.

    Final thoughts for today:

    I feel the Rose-Index is a great tool, however the hurdle I currently have is to get others to take a chance on it and see if they feel the same way. I’m not naive, I understand not everyone has the same opinion, however I do what I can. I contacted Randy because I watched some of his videos. I learned a bit about his background and felt he would be a great person to critique and give an honest review of the Rose-Index. With communicating with Randy he was open to taking a look at it. This is literally the first time anyone with a Web Channel has spotlighted the Rose-Index. This is a very versatile tool that even after years of using it I still find new ways of making my job easier.

    Thank you,


  23. You could use your collect block to do the same thing. This tool would be good if you didn't have a collect block.

  24. Timm obviously make nice tools. In your example of a simple jack shaft with pulleys on the ends, why bother clocking those keyways ? Seems to me it isn't important to have precision clocked keyways. In the end, what does it mater where the keyways are in relation to each other?
    Ya did a great job promoting this product. I enjoyed watching your Infomercial.

  25. I'm sorry if I'm a sit slow but why not clamp the thing to the work out of the cutting area and just butt it up to the square after rotating to the next side to be cut?
    Cheers Eric

  26. I like it Randy, I am holding off on collet blocks as I don't have a set of collets, but this indexing tool would serve my purpose for most things in my home shop. Cheers!

  27. Anything made by the Rose family is quality. Rose, Rosenthal, Rosenburg…whatever. Quality stuff.

  28. Useful tool but way over my pay grade. One thing I would do If I had enough stick out and that would be to leave the tool on the piece,it should keep all the cut's uniform. Thank you Randy. I Liked and Shared.

  29. That was a cool idea for a tool, thanks for showing it. Makes simple sense.

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